Sunday, 30 August 2020

Open Source Exploration

What the heck does this have to do with sailing?

At the moment I have absolutely no idea... (lol)

Prior to the summer of 2020 I’d progressively upgraded Windstar's electronics as follows:  

  • Raymarine SEATALKng backbone 
  • Raymarine Ev-100 evolution autopilot comprising:

    • Ev-1 compass sensor 
    • Acu-100 controller 
    • Wheel drive 
    • P70 control head
  • Raymarine i70 multi instrument display
  • Garmin gps antenna 
  • Maretron speed/depth sensor
  • ICOM M506 AIS VHF 
  • VYacht wifi gateway (this feeds network data nia wifi or Ethernet, , converted to nmea0183 format from nmea2000)
  • Actisense NGT-1 USB gateway.  This feeds nmea2000 data via a serial (USB) connection to any USB device.
  • 2 iPads running iSailor, fed by the vYacht gateway. (The iPad cannot accept USB data and iSailor was not able to accept nmea2000 data.)
All of the hardware is NMEA2000 (SeatalkNG) compliant, and it is documented in other pages on this blog.  (look at posts under "Electrical and Electronics")   Wanting to better understand and exploit the network and technology, and extremely curious about the open source world, I decided to take the plunge.  

The prototype assembly and installation of the various parts is discussed here.

Follow the links below to read more about the various components:
  • Raspberry Pi - a powerful palm sized computer utilizing a Linux OS, that runs on 3.2A max of of 5.2vdc USB power.
  • OpenPlotter - a complete suite of sailing applications, including openCPN, that runs on a Raspberry Pi 
  • openCPN - an full-featured open source chartplotter, with a range of plug-ins.
  • oSENC charts - open(ish) source charts for openCPN.

Also worth reading:

  • SignalK - An open source protocol for the exchange of marine data.
  • An excellent Panbo article discussing some applications and the potential of a SignalK server (included in OpenPlotter) can be found here

Below are some screenshots of OpenPlotter to provide some understanding of its components.   New functionality is underdevelopment for it and openCPN.




Below is a signalK Dashboard.   This is a custom view featuring 14 of the 45 datapoints on my NMEA2000 network.   Very cool, you can troubleshoot and monitor any aspect of the boat's systems.  As a simple example, I used this to quickly assess electronic compass deviation and create a deviation table.   


I used this setup for my route planning and navigation on a recent 8 day cruise between Whitby and the Thousand Islands in lake Ontario.  It was reliable and worked well.  (including wifi, web browser, email...)  

More to learn, more to follow.


















Saturday, 29 August 2020

Making Fibreglass Parts

 I needed to make some stiffeners for both the keel bolt landings and the updated instrument transducer. Tools are pictured, key are the grooved roller, called I believe a "consolidator", as well as a big sheet of thick plate glass, which in this case, I covered with waxed paper to make cleanup easier. 



I avoid laying up in situ wherever possible as it is much easier to get a dense layup on the bench.
Read up on how to do this, but the key things are to alternate mat and cloth and to use the roller to compress the laminate and maximize the glass content.  You will see the resin float up to the surface.   Let it cure on the waxed paper and the sheet will be dead flat. 
This makes for a very stiff, strong sheet.  In this case I used 6 (I think...) alternating layers each, mat and cloth, and the result was about 3/16" thick.  I think it was 6 oz mat and 9 oz cloth.    I cut the parts out with a fein multimaster, and used an angle grinder to finish the radiused corners.  
If you are laminating onto curved sections of boat, or for whatever reason, need or want to do the layup on the boat, you can use this technique but lift the waxed paper up and apply the wet laminate like a band-aid, using the consolidator to help it conform to the existing structure.   
Tapered parts can be made by planning the work, and using progressively larger pieces of glass.  (or whatever)



ultra-thin flanges for a repair job.

The deck for the mast step.  Around 3/16" thick.
Two thicknesses epoxied together to be used for the second keelbolt.  This is about 3/8" thick, very flat and very dense. 

Hull reinforcement for transducer.  Wood works, but why bother...  


Cutlery Drawer Organizer in Acrylic



The arrangement and parts minimalization took a while to figure out, but I am happy with the result, especially given the drawer is located such that you cannot see its contents when you reach in.   
The organizer can be lifted out for cleaning.   The base is 1/8" acrylic, the separators are 1/4" and 1/2"(clear) and are solvent fused to the base with methylene chloride.




First-Aid Kit Mounting Bracket

 

Winter 2015.


This is an industrial-type first aid kit in a nanuk case, purchased through Vallen.   It will be mounted overhead at the foot of the quarter berth, (overfoot?) on the inside of the bulkhead that forms the back of the engine instrumentation/control wiring chamber.  (so the case will be upright, resting on the mahogany chock, secured by the velcro and the strap)

Two layers 1/4" acrylic, fused with methylene chrolride, industrial velcro and a captive webbing strap to secure.  Scrap mahogany chock, fitted to case. 

Took more time to simplicate the concept than than to make.   Out of the way, but easy to retrieve.




Vacuum flask/Thermos rack

 This is a simple project that has improved the comfort, safety, and livability of Windstar for shorthanded (or any) sailing.   It is simply a secure rack for two vacuum flasks.  I typically preheat these with boiling water then fill one with hot water and one with excellent coffee.  I keep a small electric "marina" kettle aboard as well as a stove top kettle.  Filling these is a morning ritual.

Having two flasks means the coffee is always ready as is water for instant foods or tea for those who prefer.  Also, one can remain undisturbed while the other is being used.   These will keep water very hot for well over 24 hours.
Pretty self explanatory, 1/4" acrylic, laid out, cut and drilled then bent on a strip heater.   





Deck fills and Adaptors

 

2019 Update


So, I replaced the pump put deck fill with a standard stainless steel unit and it turns out that the fitting has the SAME THREAD, which I now believe to be 1.25" NPS  (as in....  national pipe STRAIGHT)  The forespar part consists of a male to male 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" NPS reducer and a 1 1/2" female NPS to NPT adaptor.    Seems so simple now...  

See more recent  posts on replacing these deck fittings.


Original 2017 Blog post


It appears I am one of the fortunate few who has the threaded adaptor that actually fits the original 33-2 deck fill.   Finding a replacement is nearly impossible, apparently.   I finally got around to taking this thing to two hose and fitting supply companies in Toronto, and neither could identify it.   One tried hard and told me the thread diameter is 38.5 mm, 12 tpi, (yes, mixed the units) not tapered, and is not:
BSPP
MPSM
UNF

WTF?




The deck fills themselves look an awful lot like the forespar MF-830 series.

UPDATE

OK, it looks like the 33-2 deck fills were made by a New Zealand-based company called RC marine, which was sold (along with Ronstan) to a corporation called Fortuna, which went bust mid 90's.  







The RC product line (and maybe others) was subsequently bought by Forespar in California, who continues to produce the same deck fills under the Forespar brand.  They are not widely distributed, and are difficult to find, and the connection to RC, surprisingly, is not readily findable on the internet.   In any case, the current Forespar Deck fills and associated spares are the compatible with our OEM RC deckfills.   (thanks Randy)



I have ordered a pump out adaptor.

Stay tuned.


UPDATE


May 6 2017

Got it.   Behold the elusive forespar MF-830, no doubt the prefix relates to its availability.



The pic is a bit dark...   As delivered the Forespar MF-830 adaptor consists of two pieces, screwed together.  It requires the addition of a cam lock hose connector to connect at the pump out.

What you get is a male to male adaptor, the small end of which (top thread in the photos) engages engages the deck fitting.  The large end (You can see a few threads)  engages  the second piece, which is a 1.5" female to female coupling.   

I wondered why the coupling was included - could the 1.5" male thread not fit a female cam lock hose connector?  Why three parts when two will do, as with my metal fitting in the photo above?

The 1.5" thread on both the coupling and the adaptor is not a standard north american tapered thread. (NPT style)   A cam lock hose fitting with a north american make thread will only fit if the tapered NPT male is threaded into the untapered female.  (like the metal example) The untapered male thread will not fit into NPT female thread. 

Anyway, it fits, it works, its available.   The readily available make plastic cam lock fittings thread perfectly into the coupling.  (the end facing down)  Nice thing is it is quite light.  I will attach a float, and the metal one will become a spare.

Fitting which fits.

Fitting which fits not.


Thursday, 27 August 2020

Raspberry Pies

The following is an overview of my recent experimentation with Raspberry Pi computers.    

For more detail on signalK, the OpenPlotter build and the oSENC vector charts I purchased, click here.



 The world of open source computing and the advent of devices like the Arduino and Raspberry Pi have periodically piqued my curiosity.    As I’ve contemplated various chart plotter strategies, I keep coming back to the conclusion that a dedicated chartplotter and the associated mounting hardware is a costly and rapidly obsolete convenience that is not really necessary for the sailing I do.  A computer at a desk is more comfortable for my occasional route planning and a helm-mounted tablet in an adequate case is fine for the times I need to know a more precise location while steering. 
As documented here I have relied solely on a wifi-connected iPad with a Lifeproof case, with a RAM mounting system.  This has been fine for my relatively undemanding navigational needs, though it has shortcomings; reliance on a wifi connection, (which drops periodically), a lack of full NMEA 2000 compatibility, no autopilot data exchange or control, and the need to be mindful of its state of charge.    It could also be dropped in the lake or damaged.  

These shortcomings, the eventual need to replace the aging ipad, and the desire for redundancy, have kept me thinking about other options.   This led to the experimentation with Opencpn on a laptop, which would need to be kept charged and plugged in, and somehow secured in a comfortable location to be viewed periodically while underway.   

Enter next the Raspberry Pi, and Openplotter.  The Pi is a a tiny Linux-based computer that runs very efficiently on 5.2vdc, that has attracted a huge following and a wide range of applications.   Openplotter is a ‘build’ - a bundle of software specifically developed for navigation, and for the Raspberry Pi.  (A Linux build includes only the components of the Linux operating system required to run the desired applications, plus those applications.)   The primary application in the Openplotter build is OpenCPN, a well established open-source chartplotter application that runs on many platforms.  Openplotter includes other apps like a web browser, signal K etc.  Both Openplotter and OpenCPN are well supported by an enthusiastic user/developer base.  Cool stuff!

Also in the back of my mind, and only partly related, was the desire to have a large music library on board.  As you might expect, this (along with video and other media) is also addressed through the raspberry pi/Linux community with a Media centre build known as Librelec, which is built around a well know media centre app called Kodi. (Ask any millennial....)   There are others media centre builds.

My initial thought had been to experiment with one Pi, configured to boot to or run either Openplotter or Librelec, and to situate a display (Or move one display between mounts) to suit either movie watching and navigation.   This, for a variety of reasons proved to be impractical.  Ultimately, I ended up with two computers and three displays,  (lol...  I was having fun and it was not expensive) providing  both a built in navigation computer (connected via the Actisense USB gateway to the NMEA2000 network), and a Kodi-based mediacentre with a large music and video library and the audio connected to the stereo system: effectively a home theatre.     Each system runs off the house bank via a USB charger port or directly off the 12vdc house bank.  No inverter needed, each device is frugal with power, and each is more integrated into the boat and less likely to get damaged than a laptop.      Each can be easily removed from the boat and operated/updated  at home like any other computer.  Parts and the computer itself are inexpensive off the shelf items that can be acquired and upgraded at minimal cost.   Further functionality is available and can easily be added as the mood strikes.  A very functional minimalist chartplotter could be built with as little as a Pi, a usb GPS dongle and small display monitor, running Openplotter.   The low cost of this is certainly similar to a Low end tablet, for those wondering, and each approach has its advantages.

The installation is still very prototypish, and that won’t change until I’ve determined a completed scope.  The  whole thing was fun to figure out, and it went though a variety of iterations mostly due to my very limited technological knowledge.   Either setup can be removed without a trace other than a discreetly mounted 1" ram ball.

The Chartplotter/Computer



The Pi and its 1080p monitor mounted via a Ram mount system and a vesa adaptor plate I made on the left, the ipad is on the right.   The locations can be easily swapped, either device easily removed.  The bluetooth keyboard controls the Pi.   The ipad is only in this specific location so it can be charged, though I leave it there to keep it safe.  Previously, it was located on the ram ball where the Pi is now (on the left) and it would charge there and be relocated to a ball at the helm when required.    Likely I will refine the Pi installation and relocate it at some point.  

Cabling is a challenge, and the connectors are not rugged.  This could use some refinement but the powerful little Pi bristles with ports, and the connections are many and dense.   I found that mounting the PI on the monitor was a bit ugly but was the tidiest for now, and makes removing the entire setup much easier.   

There are volumes already written about the technical aspects of the pi, openCPN, signalK, and openplotter, and much of it is geared toward developers and computer professionals.  I will avoid sharing my newly acquired but very limited technical knowledge, but will provide some links in a future post. 

So far the Pi/openplotter setup has worked flawlessly, though I now have more tech and clutter than I like, and not all of my wants have been addressed.  Will discuss this as well in another post in the near future.

The Media Centre 


On the left is a 7.5" touch screen display mounted in a housing I made from acrylic and some mahogany I had kicking around.  This slips over the fiddle in the shelf - no holes drilled, nothing cut.  The touch screen is convenient for operating KODI and is all that is required for music, but is obviously a bit small for movie viewing.




The librelec build/kodi does not support running both of the pi’s HDMI ports simultaneously, nor does it have provision for switching between them.   This required an AB switch to select between the touch screen and the a 12.5" monitor.  This monitor is  powered either by 12vdc or a USB-C connection.   Much better for movies!   Kodi’s menus can operated by either the touchscreen or a Bluetooth remote.  


The Pi and the ESD drive containing movies and music.   Same challenges with cabling of course.

The display and pi in place and connected to the USB power supply, clearly visible.


Thoughts so far 

Perfect?   No.   The pi is an inexpensive computer and its OS and apps reside on inexpensive media- an sd card.   It is best to shut down the pi using its software (vs simply shutting off the power) as the Sd card can be corrupted if the unit is powered down without a software shutdown.  The risk of this can be mitigated but it’s not bulletproof.   Nor is the pi itself bulletproof as it lives in an inexpensive enclosure bristling with its compact  PCB-mounted connections, which are somewhat exposed - it is left to the owner to ruggedize the install and secure the cables to keep them from bearing on the connections.  You can see my attempt to secure the cabling and various bits in the photos.   I would not rely on this arrangement for offshore use on a coast guard vessel!   Next step will be to consider how I can mount this in a more rugged housing with the connections strain relieved.  

That said, I’m impressed.  The openplotter system was very useful on our recent 8 day cruise, especially the 24 hour passages,  for both position verification but also AIS data.   (Dodging freighters in the dark)    

The media centre has become a reliable and well-used indulgence,   I will certainly keep enjoying and using both of these as I continue  to learn and explore their possibilities.  

Watching En Solitaire as I write.

 

Movie nights on our recent 8-day cruise - a compact folding chair enables comfortable viewing for 3  the folded chair fits easily on the shelf beside the quarter berth.








Wednesday, 26 August 2020

Raymarine software bugs bugs and resolution

Raymarine - Buyer Beware.

My next boat (soon!) will not be equipped with any product from Raymarine.

 On our 2020  cruise in the unfamilar waters of The Thousand Islands (and million shoals) I had cause and time to notice the significant variance in headings between my GPS COG, magnetic compass and Raymarine EV-1 heading sensor.    The GPS COG and magnetic compass were within the normal range of deviation, however after plotting the values I saw that the Raymarine sensor was in error on all headings, and by as much as 38 degrees.    I questioned both my commissioning and installation so I worked through troubleshooting those (this all took several hours) and  came to the conclusion that the sensor itself was the source of the errors.  I then called their tech support.      Read on below from a progression of  email discussion on Raymarine firmware updates and heading sensor issues.  


At what I hope is the end of it all, I was able to borrow a lighthouse 3 MFD from the local dealer, and I did update the firmware.  A few quirks and inconsistencies in the process slowed things down, but were not insurmountable.  Thanks to Glen at Port Whitby Marine Supplies for the use of his store display.  I note that Raymarine’s latest products do not support their seatalkNG standard, so to install any new Raymarine accessory onto an existing Raymarine network, you may require a C$50 adapter cable in addition to the existing or required cable.  Glen was good enough to lend me one with the chartplotter.  

[see 2016 Raymarine rant at bottom of this post]

One of the benefits of the updated firmware is that the i70 display has several new options, including custom screens, which can be configured to simultaneously display gps COG and the Magnetic heading from the ev1 sensor.  This makes creating a deviation table much easier, and when that data is combined with the ships compass headings you get a clear understanding of what’s going on and which device isn’t playing nice.   While this is useful but not in the league of the SignalK dashboard pictured in this thread, though the comparison is unfair.      

Ray allows global compensation of the mag sensor to get closer if necessary.  

Updating my own post for future searches...

I called raymarine tech support and after a short hold was connected to a tech, to whom I explained the symptoms and the steps taken so far.   He acknowledged that the issue with extreme compass deviation was most likely (pretty much certainly) software-related.  The gentleman was well trained and familiar with the products.   The fix requires the firmware to be updated in all of the related devices, and it requires one of Raymarines chartplotters to do so.  He advised that the "classic" series chartplotter was not up to the job and strongly recommended a MFD running  Lighthouse ii.   Good news is that my local dealer has agreed to lend me a demo unit to do this update. 

So, its solvable but the entire thing remains disappointing. This is a lot of work to resolve a product quality issue, and it will need to be done periodically to keep current.   

I note that Raymarine's site and documentation admonish that the firmware must be kept up to date, while also warning that firmware updates are done solely at the owner's risk.  This, you apparently consent to by downloading the update, which as just mentioned they strongly encourage you to do, no doubt to fix the bugs they are aware of but keep on the down low....

 Before investing in marine electronics it is well worth understanding any bugs that might be associated with the product and its software, and also on the process for updating firmware/software, since you will have to do it periodically.    The Raymarine autopilot and any other other ancillaries were engineered to require a costly Raymarine MFD to do this.   Raymarine instruments and hardware should be thought of as accessories to their MFD, rather than viable standalone products.    

 Dave

On Sun, 23 Aug 2020 at 20:16, Dave S <syerdave@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks and yes - I will just not sure about timeliness of their response and was hoping someone might know.  (I have a window of opportunity to buy this old beast.). 

 For sure the dealer is another answer and I have emailed the local one if he might have a demo unit to lend or rent, or would be willing to do an update.   

I would really prefer not to have to disassemble the system simply to correct the manufacturer’s software issues...    however this may be the only option.  

 For anyone interested, after doing its linearization, the software reports deviation of 181 degrees (lol - that’s wrong....). whereas when compared to both my magnetic compass and a separate gps  heading the max error is 37 degrees.     The mag compass and gps generally agree.

 Apparently a known issue with the early software, mentioned very quietly in the back pages of their tech forum.    This is an evolution autopilot and the issue is with the deviation autocorrection software for the Ev-1 sensor. 

 Dave 

Sent from my iPhone







Original post/vent from 2016, edited.

As mentioned in a previous thread, I have recently refitted Windstar with a SeatalkNG network, and a variety of Raymarine instruments.   Was pleased to hear that they have released several firmware updates,  and was looking forward to installing, in the hope that my autopilot might behave a bit better. 

What I was surprised to learn, and what is not mentioned in any of my Raymarine manuals (which encourage you  to check online for firmware updates) is that you cannot update Raymarine firmware without a Raymarine chartplotter!  Not unlike finding out that you you are unable to update your iphone without buying a $2000 MacBook.

I contacted Raymarine and they offered to send a tech (at my expense) to do the update, or to do it for free if I remove all of the hardware and ship it to their location.   Polite, but absurd.

While updating firmware is encouraged in all of the Raymarine documentation I have, how is not mentioned at all.

The closed shop, proprietary approach is part of Raymarine's current strategy.   The Ray-only  SeatalkNG cabling scheme is clearly an attempt to lock the owner into one manufacturer, there is no attempt to suggest otherwise and yu buy the product accepting this.   The "hey all you need is one of our great chartplotters" trap is an unethical sin of marketing omission.   Caveat emptor I suppose.

As I explore the options available in marine electronics, I have realized that in many respects, dinosaurs do walk the earth.   My cool Raymarine p70 display is really nothing more than a rugged, dumbed-down low end smart phone with one simple app and a senior-friendly interface.  Essentially a tough little display and computer running one simple app.     One simple app that I can't update unless I drop two grand on an obsolete toy I don't want, or am willing to periodically disassemble/ship/reassemble my boat's network..... 

 Simrad/Navico/Garmin all update through their chartplotters - PLUS offer a NMEA 2000 to PC interface cable for those who require one.

Ray, go away.