Cabin Top Rope clutches

 

2022 - deck hardware refresh and upgrades.  Rope clutches.

The Schaeffer clutches on Windstar have stood up well and work fine.   They are quite durable and compact as well.   Unfortunately replacements are not available and Windstar is short one  clutch on the starboard side.   The layout warrants some revision as well.  I mistakenly bought some Garhauer clutches to upgrade a few years back and they are WAY too big, requiring a lot of space to install and operate.   Saving them for the next boat, they are impressive.   

Anyone have any Schaefer line clutches in their parts bins?

I saw these in France - they look good!  The base is less than 4 3/4" long.  they only accommodate line to 10mm though...

Sail inventory

See below for Windstar's existing sail inventory.    Not sure how to measure the full radial spinnaker, other than knowing it is bigger than the asymmetrical.  I also have a spinnaker staysail I've never tried, that might be the right size....

 Just ordered a new #2 (114%)  tri-radial furling Genoa from Rolly Tasker in Thailand - this should work well for local conditions.  The #1 (140%)  is quite large, often too large, and the working jib (93%) doesn't get us to hull speed in light air.  Can't wait to try the new one out!  

The main is a custom "racing" sail by Evolution in Toronto - 2 full battens, crosscut with radial corners, and cut to full PHRF size to maximize area at the cost of occasionally having the batten foul the backstay.  

Watching the finale of the 2020 Vendee Globe and I cant help but muse about a bowsprit and a furling chute!

MAST STEP CHOCKS AND SHIMS

Mast step chocks and shims.

Spinnaker pole repair

This winter is focused on sails and running rigging:  new lines, two sails, a few other items.   One of which is the spinnaker pole, which I believe was original.  Its issues are plain to see:  It was damaged by being pressed against the baby stay at some point in its life, and the topping lift bridle is well past its retirement date.

How can I straighten the bend in the tube, and possibly (somewhat) press out the dent?

Tubing is anodized AL, 3" o.d., .080" wall, 2.83"I.d..   

This pole had no lower bridle.  Some do.  Should this one have one?

Thanks!

Was quoted around C$250 for a replacement anodized tube from a local chandler, but in a rare flash of inspiration I remembered an automotive tool called a pipe expander - meant for dealing with steel exhaust tubing.   C$35 later I was able to do a passable job removing the dent using an el cheapo  tubing expander from Princess Auto.  Misted it with silver paint as well, just 'cuz.

So far, have replaced the shock cord as can be seen above.  See tools and some detail below.

Mainsail decision made!

So, Evolution sails it is.  They (John Dakin)  and North (Hugh Beaton) were by far the most engaged and responsive of those I contacted, both sent detailed proposals offering alternatives.  Each explained their rationale and the features and benefits of each option.  Both were intimately familiar with the C&C 33ii, not surprising here in Toronto.  North was actually referred by a lister through the US and chased the enquiry on their own.  (cool) There was little to choose between the two, other than my modest preference for one of three options proposed by Evolution, and the fact that the entire sail is made locally.  Both were highly recommended by a local marine industry exec and ex-sailmaker friend of mine.    

• Each loft recommended cross-cut dacron, some with two price points, one a more "commodity" sail, one more tailored, with higher grade cloth.
• UK sails (who has my sails in their Toronto loft today for fall repairs and assessment) never bothered to quote, despite 3 reminder emails.
• Lee sails quoted a commodity sail only, after having asked a few basic questions, and advised that I could earn a discount by placing an order that accommodated their spring shipping container, but that I'd better hurry because the local agent would be away for several month on holiday over the winter.  Price was not appreciably less than others locally loft for a similar commodity sail.  
• After a poke or two Doyle responded with a friendly email only, short on detail and with pricing that was not terribly competitive.  Also, they are far enough away as to require shipping.
• Rolly Tasker in Thailand (David) was the value king - great and thorough response (again) and C$700 or so cheaper than others for what is probably a quality commodity-type sail, with partial battens.   No middlemen.    If I were on a budget I would order from Tasker (again - I bought a cruising spinnaker from them a few months back) without hesitation.
• Both Tasker and Lee were not prepared to quote full battens, only prep for same, so the buyer would need to spend more locally and sort out the details.  I think the long battens make offshore shipping an issue, but I did not really investigate that.  
• Interestingly the sail area (roach) really varied between quote (Lee and Doyle did not specify SA), I suspect as a result of familiarity of North and Evolution with PHRF ratings and the boat itself.   Highest was  292 sq ft, lowest 263sq ft from Tasker.   It is possible that at order time they would request more info and tweak that.  Lee covered roach dimensions in their very detailed order form.   
• Lee's order form is pretty complete and is a useful way to document your rig for getting quotes from sailmakers.   Tasker's is less detailed.  I used Tasker's and posted photos here.
• I think that Evolution sails may be a good option for US C&C owners looking to benefit from the current weak Canadian dollar with a loft that has plenty of C&C experience.
• Prices ranged from approximately C$1800 to C$2500 for the more basic sails, to around $3200 for a higher-end but still cross-cut sail from a responsive local loft.

Am pretty happy to be dealing with a local loft on this one, I think availability for future service plays more of a role with a main than a spinnaker, and tribal knowledge of the various C&C models that is natural to the Toronto area is worth something to me.  Not having to ship the sail matters too - one fitting tweak could eat up some freight cost, especially cross-border.

Mainsail specification, rig photos, dimensions, details

Mainsail Deliberations

After much thought, research, and sound advice, I would modify my intended use to read:

I value the 33-2's performance, and enjoy getting the most I can out of the boat.  In the past I had not paid much attention to the finer points of sail trim, however in researching this mainsail purchase, I have realized that I would very much enjoy a well designed, "tunable" mainsail, and would like to learn how to optimize sail shape.  

That said, most of my sailing here on Lake Ontario will be for pleasure, daysailing or short cruises,  either single-handed or effectively so.  I will likely look for some recreational racing opportunities and at some point would like to try distance racing, but not at an ultra-competitive level.   I don't want to buy another main for this boat in the next decade.

The parameters for my new main are also becoming more clear. I believe the mainsail features most appropriate for my use are:

• Cross-cut construction (radial optional, not really necessary)
• top quality, low stretch dacron
• Loose footed
• luff slides 
• 4 partial battens or 2+4 full/partial.  
• two sets reef points. 
• Cunningham
• telltales
• 2-3 draft stripes
• Sail no 34760 - blue
• C&C logo?

I welcome any suggestions.

Factory sailplan can be found here:   

http://www.candc33mkii.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Sailplan-Deckplan-Accommodations-and-Sling-locations0001.pdf

Preferred Details (alternative suggestions welcome)

How the reefing lines will be rigged.   Do I really need a block at the clew?

Reefing tack - The previous sail was a Type A.  Worked great I thought.

Not sure what to do with the Cunningham, but the gooseneck fitting has two fairleads that look like candidates for this use.   

Windstar's measured dimensions

Luff - masthead sheave to top of boom:  39' 7"

Luff - top of black tape on mast to top of boom: 39' 1"

Foot - end of boom extrusion to back of mast: 138" 

Foot - end of black tape boom to back of mast:  135"  

Tack back - top of boom to centre of current tack shackle: 1 1/4"

Tack up - aft edge of mast to centre of current tack shackle:  7/8"

Reefing hook - aft edge of mast to underside of reefing hook:  approx 2"

Reefing hook - height from top of boom: approx 2"

Sail slide gate - bottom of gate to top of boom:  10 3/4"

What are these used for?

Documenting my rig for winter work and a new mainsail, and it's like a box of chocolates...

Here is the gooseneck fitting from below - what are the two fairleads for? (Cunningham maybe?)

Another mystery item, this shot from the bottom of the boom.   The swivel padeye is the vang attachment.  What was the the cleat mounted forward of that used for?
Does anyone know who manufactured the padeye itself?

The next two show why it is a good idea to inspect the rig!  End of boom casting fracture, and mainsheet attachment rivet failure.

Bang! Broken spinlock rope clutch...

Setting up the spinnaker topping lift yesterday and bang - the clutch frame broke.  See the pic.   Does anybody have a replacement or, better yet, a spare single or double (or triple?) Schaefer clutch they'd be willing to part with?  (the Schaefers seem to work better)

Schaefer Type 2 Rope Clutches - Large   (3/8"-1/2" line)

Schaefer Type 2 Large - Single Rope Clutch: Sch 71-61X: Schaefer Type 2 Large Aluminum Single Rope Clutch is designed for use with line from 3/8"-1/2" (9-13mm) diameter. Attaches to Deck with (2) 1/4" (6mm) FH screws on 3 3/4" centers. Base is (maximum) 4 1/2" long x 1" wide. Unit is (maximum) 3 1/4" high (with handle down). Suitable for most applications on boats to 35' LOA.

You can clearly see the fracture by the fulcrum pin.  The one spinlock broke, the 30 year old Schaefers are fine.  

 This is the larger of the two clutch series' that Schaefer offered.  

Starboard side clutches as well.  Probably could improve the layout.   Silly clam cleat there is for the baby stay.

Repairing the Harken furler

I had noticed that the top of my aluminum furler extrusion was slowly being eroded away by the much harder steel forestay  fittings.   Last season, the furler would occasionally jam, if the halyard wa too tight, not sure if it was related, but when the mast was unstepped it was clear that it needed to be dealt with.
This photo is from another 33, same problem, not nearly as advanced as mine was.

I called harken, a few dealers, and posted online, looking for parts for this vintage unit, and came up  empty-handed.   No parts meant either replace the entire furler, or figure out how to repair.

Interestingly, it appears that in both Windstar and the a boat shown above, the furler had been installed without a length of connector in the end, to serve as a bushing.  The tech at harken told me that the only bearing-like support at the head of the extrusion was provided by the rubber end cap.   The instructions however, show a length of plastic connector servicing this function.   It may be that the fitting diameter did not permit a the installation of the connector in this application.   Anyway, 30 years later, the extrusion is badly damaged.

To start I trimmed an inch of damaged metal off the extrusion.

Turns out the extrusion could not be removed from the stay, not easily anyway, so, how to strengthen
and slightly extend the extrusion, in situ, without gluing it to the stay?

I decided to make a sleeve with a water soluble bearing covered by a release liner, and to build an epoxy glass sleeve over that.   Using only the first high tech materials you see the sleeve below.



Mylar tack tape over cheap toilet paper, wrapped fairly tight.  Used toilet paper in case some got stuck inside - it could dissolve over time.

 Next, wrapping with strips of fine glass cloth then saturating with epoxy.

Then wrapped in waxed paper to kick

After that, there was a tapered glass tube floating over the stay.    I was able to remove the toilet paper at this stage, my concern about it getting stuck inside unwarranted.  The part was then sanded, then set into a mold, centred and dammed with plactiscene.  the mold was then filled with glass-strand filled epoxy resin.  Below, just out of the mold.

That raw part carefully sanded to fit the inner contours of the extrusion.

then coated with resin and tapped home.  I preheated the extrusion to expand it.   A tight fit.

Then, the top was built up with more glass-loaded resin, and a new cap installed.   This had to be cut to get it over the stay, hence the visegrips.

And voila.   Wrapped with rigging tape.  Good for another 30 years!