C&C 33ii Emergency Tiller Refinements

C&C 33ii Emergency Tiller Refinements

Update

Stowage for the emergency tiller is documented here.

Dealing with the tiller

Ok, "refinement" might be a stretch.

C&C supplied a very nicely made alloy emergency tiller with the 33ii, and designed the boat so the top of the rudder post is easily accessed.   So, dealing with steering failure should be relatively simple - just slip the tiller over the post and till away.  Right?

Well, not exactly.    The cast aluminum tiller head's bore is a very snug fit on the stainless rudder post, and in my case, due to some very minor dings on the sharp edge of the bore, it was not possible to slip it over the post at all.   Even without those dings, once started, it was not possible to fully seat the tiller by hand pressure alone.   The tiller is secured by a stainless bolt that requires two 3/4" wrenches to tighten.  These were simply taped to the tiller.  (nothing to go wrong there!)    All things considered, not what one would want to be dealing with in an emergency.

So, I filed a chamfer on the edge of the bore itself, then sanded the bore smooth(er), and waxed it.  Hopefully it will slip more readily over the post.

I had intended to replace the machine bolt on the tiller hinge with some kind of shaft and hand knob arrangement to make it tool-less, but I got to thinking about it while some varnish was drying, and and I came up with a less elegant but workable approach.  Thinking about it, I'm not sure the hand knobs would have allowed enough force to secure the tiller, and while some kind of cam screw arrangement would probably be ideal, that was too far down this rabbit hole, even for me.  Besides, the varnish was nearly dry.  

An eye strap was riveted to the tiller head and a length of shock cord installed.  (using hog rings to make secure loops)  To this, a pair of tethered wrenches was ring-hitched.   The geometry involved and the tension from the shock cord combine to secure the wrenches, while permitting them to be withdrawn from the tiller if needed.  Ugly but functional.

Next iteration is to cut the open end off the wrenches, and bore holes for the tether.   This way the wrenches can be fully inserted in the tube.  

This provided a minor lesson in metallurgy.   I cut the wrenches down with an abrasive-wheel chop saw, but drilling proved to be a challenge until I annealed the ends with a propane torch.  Easy then.  The holes were drilled, gently countersunk, and any burrs addressed with a conical bit in a Dremel.   The handles were dipped in primer, then paint.   

Canvas work, improving cockpit comfort.

Cockpit canvas upgrades

Update 

A panorama of the new-in-2019 cockpit shelter.

A dodger and bimini were must-haves on my boat acquisition checklist, and Windstar came with both.   Also included was a joiner piece to connect the two (usable only when at anchor as the mainsheet traveller is mounted on the bridge deck) and two zip-on side curtains that helped provide some shade and privacy.  Two stainless steel grab handles are mounted on the dodger frame.   Very useful.

The old canvas worked well enough underway,  however at anchor, when the connector was attached, the natural path for for rain water run off was onto the coaming and then into the cockpit.  This made the cockpit unusable in even a light drizzle, though  at least the companionway could be left open.  The side curtains were very basic and of limited benefit.  

When the dodger windows became opaque and the stitching began to fail in places, I consulted with Paul Macdonald of Bluewater Marine, and a dodger repair and a new bimini, connector, and side curtains were commissioned.

We collaborated on a new design for side curtains, much larger than before, with screening and roll-up Sunbrella rain panels.   Best of all, despite an awkward 3 way corner, where side curtain, dodger and connector meet, the rain no longer enters the cockpit at all, making for a remarkable improvement in livability.

I had also asked Paul to provide a means of securing the dodger window in the open position - flipped up and lying on the dodger roof.   

Paul is a pro who consulted thoroughly did nice work, and delivered on time. 

Bluewater Marine 

Custom Made Marine Tops/Covers

Paul MacDonald

Member I.M.F.A.

905-213-4498

bluewatermarine3@gmail.com

    

Winter Cover Frame

I posted the photos below after a discussion on snow-crushed cover frames.    Turns out that not all frames were created equal.

Windstar's frame came with the boat, not sure of its origins but it works pretty well.   Remarkably, Dennis from Quinte canvas was able to make a cover that fit very well from my emailed dimensions.

Key to the frame's strength vs the more typical backbone-and-ribs are:

•  the vertical posts supporting the backbone via a T fitting.  (same fitting as each rib half) which I tie in place at the foot so they can't move. 
• the longitudinal tubing along each side, running through a crossover fitting.  The frame is bungeed or tied to the toe rail at every crossover.   
• One of the ribs is (now) inserted into the stanchion socket.   (I figured this out this season, photos are a few years old.  You can see the 4th rib from the bow is beside a stanchion base.)

If I were to build from scratch I would size the ribs so that as many as possible could be inserted into the stanchion sockets, adding any other ribs between as necessary.

The frame pieces are stored clamped onto a length of tubing, the ribs in pairs.

I have yet to devise an part-identification system that I am happy with.

The component parts can be sourced industrially and are known as structural pipe fittings (or similar).   some links and images at the bottom of the page.

Links to the bits and pieces below are examples only:

Here is the crossover fitting

https://www.walmart.com/ip/30LX29-Structural-Pipe-Fitting-Pipe-Size-2in/44953362

:

http://www.keesafety.ca/products/kee_klamp#catalogue

https://www.easyfit.com/catalog/category/add-on_fittings

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/CLAMP-ON-CROSSOVER-PIPE-SIZE-1-1-2/_/R-GGM4NXV8

http://www.hollaender.com/files/1/Tech_Data/Part_Drawings/12_1114.pdf

Working with shock cord

 The spinnaker pole rebuild triggered an investigation into shock cord.

Buy it.

It's not easy for the novice like me to tell good from bad.  What I managed to learn was that a dacron cover has superior life to nylon and is one of the indicators of a superior product, as is the amount of elongation that the product will permit.  Try it.  Cheap stuff does not stretch as far as the better stuff, and feels quite different.  OK, not exactly the definitive guide to things Bungee, but it's a start.

Cut it, terminate it.

To cut it, tape first with masking tape then use a hot knife.  I bought a soldering gun with a cutting tip on kijiji, and it works well enough. 

To terminate, use stainless hog rings and the appropriate crimp pliers.  Was not able to find these easily in Toronto, but in fishing communities where lobster traps are used and maintained they are commonplace, as are the better grades of shock cord.

Easy.   All the right stuff is in the photo below, followed by a shot of crimped hog rings on the original shock cord.

Old vs new.

When I dismantled the spinnaker pole and looked closely at the original cord, I could see a construction quite different than I was used to seeing.  See below.   The old stuff, (white) with two layers of braid looks as though it would have greater ultimate strength   and perhaps a more specific extended length than the new stuff.  the rubber cores are different as well.  Though obviously expired, it had not failed in use.  I expect the newer stuff would have snapped.  Perhaps this older style material still exists?

Spinnaker pole repair

This winter is focused on sails and running rigging:  new lines, two sails, a few other items.   One of which is the spinnaker pole, which I believe was original.  Its issues are plain to see:  It was damaged by being pressed against the baby stay at some point in its life, and the topping lift bridle is well past its retirement date.

How can I straighten the bend in the tube, and possibly (somewhat) press out the dent?

Tubing is anodized AL, 3" o.d., .080" wall, 2.83"I.d..   

This pole had no lower bridle.  Some do.  Should this one have one?

Thanks!

Was quoted around C$250 for a replacement anodized tube from a local chandler, but in a rare flash of inspiration I remembered an automotive tool called a pipe expander - meant for dealing with steel exhaust tubing.   C$35 later I was able to do a passable job removing the dent using an el cheapo  tubing expander from Princess Auto.  Misted it with silver paint as well, just 'cuz.

So far, have replaced the shock cord as can be seen above.  See tools and some detail below.

Gori 2-blade prop

My Martec was tired and I knew I wanted a folding prop to replace it.   Pretty happy with the Gori.  Do beware that the normal shaft section where the castle nut is installed may be different in length than a typical North American prop.  (the gears foul the end of the shaft on the gori, there is more space on the martec.   A long story but it took some doing to install this, and some mods to a brand new shaft.
In any case it works great, no issues so far.   Shipped air from Denmark amazingly quickly, great service from the agent in New England somewhere.

What are these used for?

Documenting my rig for winter work and a new mainsail, and it's like a box of chocolates...

Here is the gooseneck fitting from below - what are the two fairleads for? (Cunningham maybe?)

Another mystery item, this shot from the bottom of the boom.   The swivel padeye is the vang attachment.  What was the the cleat mounted forward of that used for?
Does anyone know who manufactured the padeye itself?

The next two show why it is a good idea to inspect the rig!  End of boom casting fracture, and mainsheet attachment rivet failure.

Mid 1980s C&C keel issues

See below for photos of mid-80s C&C keel deterioration.  This appears to occur where winters are freezing cold and boats are stored on land.   Seems as though water migrates down the keelbolt into the lead casting and freezes each winter, incrementally enlarging any voids or cavities each seasonal cycle.  These photos were shot in a short stroll around one marina yard, near Toronto.

C&C 33-2 water strainer installation error and 2GM issue

Last week Windstar developed a noisy exhaust note, not unlike an unmuffled motor cycle engine.   After a minute or two, and some higher RPMs, it would settle down to its usual quiet gurgle.   Obviously this was an issue with an intermittent absence of cooling water, but why?   I checked underway and the water pump was turning, its hose seemed pressurized.  I also checked the water strainer (as best I could underway) and clearly water was being pulled through.   This left the mixing elbow and the heat exchanger to consider. 
I read over the very well-written shop manual, and went back at the boat where I disconnected the short hose between the heat exchanger and the mixing elbow, connected a length of 5/8" heater hose to the mixing elbow, and blew through it just to check for resistance.  The pleasant gurgle flashed me back to high school, and the ease of blowing showed that the passages were free of serious restrictions.   I put the hose on the elbow exiting the heat exchanger, and started the engine.  No water, checked the water pump and noticed it was now not turning.    Tightened the belt and problem solved. 
I had set it quite loose and it worked fine all season, only now getting glazed to the point that it slipped at low rpm or until it got warm.  I had dismissed the most likely source of trouble - the pump - because I service it every year, and because I had assumed any problem would involved a completely failed impeller.      Anyway, lesson learned...or probably not.   But, that's not the point...  I found some other stuff.

First Issue:
The 33-2 has its raw water strainer mounted in such a way that it cannot be easily checked or cleaned.   See the photo below where I managed to crop out the heater hoses above, but, in order to lift and remove the strainer basket, it was necessary to remove the coolant reservoir, by sliding it upward off its bracket, but in order to that, it was necessary to unscrew the two P clamps securing the hot water hoses.  (you see those in the photo below)

The solution (below) is simply to move the coolant reservoir bracket to starboard, and move the coolant hose p-brackets upward slightly.   There was enough play in the hoses that this was no problem.  

Second issue:  
When removing the hose connecting the heat exchanger to the mixing elbow, the small elbow/fitting on the heat exchanger came off in my hand, despite what appeared to be a securing set-screw holding it in place.   See below.

That screw (the Philips head, clearly visible) engages a groove in the elbow and this holds it and its sealing o ring in place, allowing a secure seal with 360 degrees of rotation.   On mine, the screw was pitted and flush with the bore, and did not penetrate into its receiving groove in the fitting.   Over time it had eroded or corroded, had become effectively shorter and no longer secured the elbow.   In the photo above, if you grabbed that elbow and pulled hard, straight up, the elbow  would lift out of its bore.   When running, coolant pressure is not adequate (I think) to overcome the tension placed on the joint by the hose, however the screw obviously needs replacement.  Yours probably does too.