I avoid laying up in situ wherever possible as it is much easier to get a dense layp on the bench.
Read up on how to do this, but the key things are to alternate mat and cloth and to use the roller to compress the laminate and maximize the glass content. You will see the resin float up to the surface. Let it cure on the waxed paper and the sheet will be dead flat.
This makes for a very stiff, strong sheet. In this case I used 6 (I think...) alternating layers each, mat and cloth, and the result was about 3/16" thick. I think it was 6 oz mat and 9 oz cloth. I cut the parts out with a fein multimaster, and used an angle grinder to finish the radiused corners.
If you are laminating onto curved sections of boat, or for whatever reason, need or want to do the layup on the boat, you can use this technique but lift the waxed paper up and apply the wet laminate like a band-aid, using the consolidator to help it conform to the existing structure.
Tapered parts can be made by planning the work, and using progressively larger pieces of glass. (or whatever)
ultra-thin flanges for a repair job.
The deck for the mast step. Around 3/16" thick.
Two thicknesses epoxied together to be used for the second keelbolt. This is about 3/8" thick, very flat and very dense.
Hull reinforcement for transducer. Wood works, but why bother...
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