Saturday, 28 September 2019

Anchor Handling - some improvement required!

Seems I'm not the only 33-2 owner who would appreciate some refinement of the anchor handling setup.   Haven't made that a priority yet but the exchange below explains why I'm now thinking about it.  Windstar runs with a 10kg bruce anchor, 50' of heavy chain and 100' of 4 plait nylon rode.   The conversation started with Adrian asking whether any 33-2 owner had installed a windlass.

Choose your anchor carefully. I have a 15 Kg Bruce knock off and about 60 feet of 5/16 anchor chain and that’s really all I want to haul by hand at 68. That anchor has never slipped and others have felt comfortable to raft up alongside over night. I wear thick rubber gloves to retrieve my anchor. Sometimes the anchor holds too hard to break free by hand so then I tie off on a cleat and use engine power to break it free. That vertical windlass you refer to is called a capstan. So far I have resisted installing a windlass on my 35MKII mainly because of the cost and work involved. Maybe a smallish say 10 Kg Rocna anchor would be better 

Dwight

On Sat, Sep 28, 2019 at 8:50 AM Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I see no response yet, and have until recently (just turned 56....) felt that the 33-2 was really too small to warrant a windlass.   Am now on the fence.   Also noticed a 32 at my marina with what appear to be a tidy installation of a vertical windlass.  (Adrian, will try to get some pics.)
 Would like to ask/add a related question - has anyone improved anchor handling in general?   Am happy that the 33-2 has a roller and chain locker, however I had some excitement this season hand-retrieving 50’ of fully extendedchain in a stiff breeze and chop.  The line then later the chain hopped off the roller and slammed/wedged into the pulpit stanchion base as the boat sheered and bobbed about - very exciting and extremely strenuous for a solo sailor.   (With little sea room astern, but that’s a seamanship issue).
No bail on the roller, and the poor lead from hand-hauling didn’t help. Really, a short sprit plus the parallel-to-deck lead for the chain afforded by a windlass would be ideal,  but that feels like a lot of infrastructure for a small lightweight boat.  Any thoughts?

Dave

Windstar 33-2


We have a 25# CQR, 25' of chain, and 200' of 3-strand nylon.

Getting the nylon up is not a big problem even at 74 yrs, but the chain as Dave points out, besides being hard to handle manually, will hop the centerline roller, then grind against the pulpit and/or the roller furler drum because of the awkward lead as you pull on the chain.

I am thinking to at least install a separate overhanging anchor roller, offset one side of the headstay, to improve the lead of the rode, and house the anchor once under weigh. The CQR is a tight fit in the anchor locker, and brings a ton of mud aboard even when bucket-washed. 

There is very little room to install a windlass on the 33, both on deck and below (for the vertical axis motor), but the nice thing would be the chain gypsy to pull that last 25' of chain rode. I am looking at a hand crank Muir VM500  but how to discharge the rode into the anchor locker? Also it looks like Muir windlass cranks in one direction only, so you would need enough room to make complete circles with a winch handle. Better if you could free-ratchet back, then pull (or push) for power.

Dave, pictures of your neighbor's installation would be most welcome.


Adrian 




OK Adrian, here's one pic.   The owner wasn't around today so I couldn't learn much, however i did peek inside the locker and it is unmodified, so the chain wraps around the gypsy as you'd imagine and is allowed to fall into the anchor locker.   This would be a tight fit on the 33-2 and is perhaps not feasible due to the foredeck padeye.   I have seen an installation on 35-3 IIRC where the windlass was mounted on the back  10" of the anchor locker lid which had been cut and fixed in place (and reinforced obviously).   The forward triangle of the lid,  though much smaller, still served its intended function.





Monday, 16 September 2019

Saloon Table Upkeeper

Turning on the Table

Inconsistent upkeeping has been the downfall of my saloon table.   Many times. 
A few weeks back, it downed yet another Guiness,  and I resolved that it would thereafter remain remain upstanding. 

Proof of concept



Trial Fit in Mahogany



Finished upkeepers





Should be self-explanatory.  These were made with some scrap mahogany door jambs that were on my wood rack.
The ends were fitted to the table support struts and a 3/4" diameter rare earth magnet was flush fitted into the backside of the piece, behind the knob.
A plated steel disk was set flush into the plywood table side, opposite the magnet, and in two locations - one to secure the upkeeper when in use, the other to store it when the table is folded. 
Works better than I could have hoped.

 

Tuesday, 3 September 2019

winter work 2019/2020

A running list....

Service Mixing elbow
water pump impeller
install dimmer
revise alternator wiring
varnish teak
measure bilge pump hose
service bilge pump
grind limber holes
decision on ray p70/chartplotter
hose hangers from piano hinge
mic clip to companionway
binoc holder
hose and shore power aboard
Aux circuit to cabin
install fan in cabin
rewire compass light to running lights
sun shades for hatches
replace windows
finish bulkhead
glasses holder
sparker holder for stove
sort and mark dock lines
make singlehanded dock lines
ensure inventory of shore power adaptors:
L20P>L30R  (hanlans, others)
5-15R>L30P (for using shore power as ext.)
5-15P>L-30R (charging from normal recept.)
receptacle in galley
subwoofer
music on tablet?
create maintenance log, seasonal log
stowage for screens
Enging controls and friction
new companionway hatch


Measure
reefing ties - need for reefs 1 and 2
reef 2 needs a longer one.
location for aft lazyjack.
shelves in main cabin for baskets



lighting in cockpit locker
lighting in QB
cabin red lighting
dividers in anchor locker


Buy
sea dog drain plugs for hanging locker 347360
Cover for binnacle
marinco cable clips for dock
mattress topper
large alligator clip for VOM ground lead
reflective insulating material for hatches
reef 2 - longer
second propane tank?
countertop
fabric - 30m/33 yd
part for oil change pump.
fruit and bread basket
LED for unning lights
engine controls
plexiglass for windows







Monday, 2 September 2019

Going off the grid - charging and battery options


This page is a placeholder for a possible project enhancing Windstar\s range |off the grid.  This basically means minimizing power consumption, a process started with LED conversion and fridge optimization, discussed elsewhere, and mostly completed in 2019.
Following that the battery bank capacity (physical space) needs to be determined.  I had thought that 2 groupl 31 batteries (approximately 230 AH) plus one start battery was the practical limit, however another 33-2 owner has advised that he was able to install 4ea form GC 6v (approximately 440 AH) golf cart batteries in the existing battery locker.  This is a major gain in capacity.   I did not think there was adequate height for this and I need to understand whether if in Windstar, this is possible.
Once the battery capacity is known, the charging capacity can be designed to suit.
The photos below are to record the space available on the bimini for a solar panel.   Stay tuned.... 




Upgrading the Galley

This post is a placeholder for information relating to the forthcoming replacement of the galley countertop, as was necessitated by the fridge refit.   No doubt this will "necessitate"  other improvements.

The original counter is made of plywood and is xx thick.

  • Fridge lid 23.125"w X 33d incl rabbet
  • Sink portion 24.5d X 18.5w
  • Engine box cover 39.5d x 19w
Will try to source a solid surface counter for at least the sink and fridge area, and perhaps an under-hung sink for ease of cleaning.  
Soap dispensing could use a dedicated home.
The sink is 10" deep to the top of the flanges.
The through hull is several inches aft of the drain, which s centered in the sink.  A drain at the back would make better use of the cabinet space. 









PFD and Tether stowage

Another item off the list of minor irritants...

In 2019 I spent some time looking at the clutter in Windstar and the stowage of various items which were either repeatedly routinely taken out then out put away, or might need to be quickly, possibly in an emergency.   PFDs made the list.  My objective was that they are out of the way bu readily accessed, are in a well ventilated space, and do not have to be moved in order to access other stowage.  
The volume and bulkhead space defined by the quarter berth area seems to be the place where I've been able to find space for stowage, and given how I use the boat, this makes sense.   
The solution proved to be simple, and so far works fine.  



Paper Towel Holder

Hardly worth mentioning, but....


Simple solutions often punch above their weight and this is no exception.   I had pondered over a paper towel holder for a while before coming up with this simple solution.  The unseen end of the shock cord is attached to a small eye strap mounted on the bulkhead.



Sunday, 1 September 2019


C&C 33-2 drawing


Windstar Cabin Upholstery



I am looking to replace Windstar's original interior cushions and fabric (and blinds) with new.  The interior is typical for a boat of this size and I have photographed construction details of the originals.   

Looking for completion early may 2020.

Fabric

  • Synthetic (outdoor) upholstery most appropriate - acrylic or olefin.
  • Have estimated that project will require 30m X 54" fabric, however this should not be used for quoting purposes as I am no expert.
  • some foam may still be usable.
  • need to consider the style of cushions - same as original?
  • Below are some fabric options, I am open to suggestions.   






Foam

  • Windstar's v-berth and quarter berth cushions (mattresses) are 4" thick, however the seat cushions are 4"+1" softer foam on top, giving edges a rounded appearance.  These comprise several cushions each, so sleepers must contend with gaps between cushions.   Thinking mattress toppers with fitted mattress pads on upholstered cushions is the best way improve comfort, while protecting the upholstery.
  • Seat cushions will take some though, perhaps layered

Foamite Toronto visit - August 2019 - recommendations

  • 2" Mattrress Topper:  Ecocell EC-26  (for V-berth,
    Quarter berth.   Not necessary to quote this unless you wish to make some fitted sheets.)
  • Mattresses:   Koosh KN31, Med Firm
  • Seats:   Koosh KN 41 Firm
  • Koosh is a 2.5 to 2.8 lb HR (high resiliency) green coloured foam with "the most soy". 


Cushion dimensions and Construction

See pics below of cushions on 12X12 tiles

Quarter Berth

This consists of two cushions, the underside of which seems to receive more chafe and damage than any other.  Perhaps the underside should be upholstered in vinyl or some other more durable material.
I may use a mattress topper here with a fitted sheet for use as a bed.   The smaller cusion doubles as the nav desk seat, so it is subjected to more use than any other berth in the boat,





















V-Berth

Typical arrangement.   I will use a mattress topper with a fitted sheet to span the gaps here and make a more comfortable bed.






Main Cabin, Starboard

Self explanatory.  Note the channel for the shroud strut in the top of the forward cushion back.





Main Cabin, Port Side


Note the two "filler" cushions used to make the L-shaped settee into a truly awful double berth.





Fabric options



Here are a few.










Portlight Replacement

This series of C&C yachts has its bronze-tinted, acrylic portlights set into a rabbet in the molded cabin sides.   The flush, frameless look is sleek, but it does create more work than framed portlights when replacement is required. 

 Windstar's starboard portlight had begun to uninstall itself and leak at the beginning of the 2019 season.   A temporary repair got Windstar through the summer but replacement was required.. 
It had come unglued and opened 1/4” at its forward end, but remained firmly bonded for most of the rest of its length.   Using a mallet with a wooden drift and wedges, and a great deal of struggle, it finally yielded, though n two pieces, taking some gel coat chips (hidden) with it.   Removing the brittle residual adhesive was also a battle and required scrapers, a random orbit sander, and my trusty fein multi-tool with both a diamond rasp, and coarse sandpaper.

The port-side portlight was not leaking.  It had been repaired previously, as evidenced by some large chips in the gelcoat that had been sloppily re-glued in place, and by the use of a different sealant, possibly silicone.   The sealant was tidy and well done, but the chips and a couple of large gelcoat cracks looked awful and I figured I'd best repair those and replace both portlights at once.  

As with the starboard side,  I figured that a wooden drift and mallet would fracture the joint at one end with progressive wedging and tapping to slowly fracture the rest.

It didn't work.   Even with hard-as-I-dared  mallet blows from a hefty brass mallet, there was no movement at all.   At this point I was quite concerned that the window may have been epoxied in place.  (As with a friend's cnc 32)

After a bit of thought I decided to try cutting through the sealant from outside.   This was surprisingly easy, and the knife (olfa boxcutter) plunged deep into the joint.   Second attempt with mallet and drift separated the aft end, and this time,  working a putty knife to progressively cut the sealant, and wedging along the portlight's length as I cut, I was done in minutes,  with little effort, and no incremental damage.  

Did the PO really use silicone to secure the portlight?   It feels like it.    If so, its hard to dispute its suitability.

  As you can see below, the installer didn't skimp on the goop, and if you look closely you will see why, and how much damage was done with the prior window replacement.   Not a lot of gelcoat left and some big chips.     I attacked this with a razor, then with a stiff wire wheel in a high RPM hand drill.   Worked pretty well, but there is still a lot of residue. 
The window came out easily once the sealant was cut with a knife.  It was unyielding before that.

The consistency evokes the delicious buffalo mozzarella I had last week!  Feels a lot like silicone.  Note gelcoat cracks. 

Nice chip repair....  and the sealant once sliced off.

Part of the rabbet wire brushed.  (Those chips came with Windstar..)

Not a lot of gelcoat left.



So...   More work than I had hoped, but worth doing.   How do I clean the residual silicone - if it is silicone- from this rough surface prior to filling?






General notes and comments from others.

A catch-all page for the moment as I plan the replacement of falling-out portlights and crazed hatch lenses.



Materials required for the companion way hatch and portlights
  • 2 portlights - Dark bronze acrylic 73”x 9” x 3/8"
  • 4 tubes sika sealant and primer.
  • 1 companionway hatch dark bronze acrylic   27.5” x 30.5” x 3/8”
  • One Atkins and Hoyle foredeck hatch  20.5 X 20.5
  • Two Atkins and Hoyle small hatches  13.25X7.5
  • Sealant for hatches.
Allowance should be made for working - those dimensions are of the finished piece.


See below for responses to a question posted to the C&C mailing list.
On re glazing hatches

 Don't use acrylic, use polycarbonate and make sure it's UV protected. Mount with 3M VHB tape and seal to the hull with a quality structural silicone (Dow Corning 995). This is the same method keeping glass in skyscrapers (and skylights). Use masking tape to mask the area around the edges and shape the bead and be sure to tool the sealant. No caulking out there is properly applied if it isn't tooled, regardless of how much testosterone there is in the claim. Untooled silicone is not watertight. A wet finger works OK but I usually use a silicone bead spray and a plastic spoon. The spray is available at Home Depot for a few bucks. The spoons . . . . McDonalds. The spray virtually liquefies the sealant for a few seconds and make a nice bead. Remove the tape a minute after the bead is finished.

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2019 14:40:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
I took a different tack on this one...after going to school on Dave Godwin, (he has a great blog site which documents his complete rebuild of his 37), and seeing how wonderful his windows looked, I took out my old windows and sent them to Maritime Plastics in Annapolis and had them make new ones, then they shipped them to me and we installed them; I figure I spent about $1100-1200, which is in the same ballpark as the kits: I am so happy not to have leaks I sometimes go sit in the boat during rain just to watch my dry windows....!!!

Richard



Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
I got this kit (included frames, mounting hardware and new plexi windows) from  Dan Boisvert @ fixleakyboats.com for my 33-2 in 2009.  Since removal of the old windows and installing the new ones was a skill I hoped to never use again, and because I wanted someone to complain to besides myself if the new ones leaked, I had the fibreglass shop at my Marina install them.  The new windows have stood up well for 10 years.   Having said that, I have friends in my harbour with a C&C 32 who ordered the kit and the very same fibreglass shop had a bit##@ch of a time getting them to fit and they complained that the support from Dan was poor.  After removal of the old windows, the new plexi is put into place with sealant and the frame provides compression to the seal  by numerous through screws with wing nuts on the inside of the cabin.  Once cured, the frames outside are calked, the wing nuts inside are removed and white nylon cap nuts are placed over the screws.  Looks good from outside.  It's not an awful look inside but the nuts are noticeable (to me, no one else has ever commented on them) and the shop had to re-install the accordian curtains a little higher to clear the nylon cap nuts.  Overall, the cost and new appearance was well worth having a dry boat.  Cost for the kit in 2009 was about $1500 CDN.
I haven't looked at his website to see if there are other reviews so this is my personal experience with these kits

Wade 


Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
Dave, when we did Perception for the second time we used 3/8 cast polycarbonate. I had Rob at south shore make them for me as the previous replacement damaged the frames and had used 1/4" extruded poly, which had cracked, and he had the original templates. We had them installed and the frames repaired - all is well 5 years later! You can get the material from Plastruct Polyzone in Beamsville, I have used them for the hatch board and slider.
Paul

Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
FWIW, I was told by a local glass shop expert that, although Lexan scratches
more easily, it is preferred if you are concerned about weight (like a crew
member) cracking the lens.  I have two hatches (of five) where this is a
concern.  According to this expert, if you are not concerned about the
weight-bearing capacity, plexiglass will hold up better over time.
Matthew

-





Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
I measured my portlights as 1/4" thick.  I think I bought acrylic (what the company uses on all the are boats) and had them round the outside edge and buff it smooth to look like glass.

Chuck S


>



Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
Hi Dave, I used 6mm acrylic with a light bronze tint when I did mine this spring and it matched the original perfectly. It is my understanding that the UV and scratch resistant polycarbonate get those added properties from coatings applied to the surface and that these coatings don't last that long. Also I believe that Lewmar used acrylic on their hatches but it is much thicker, somewhere around 12mm.

Morgan 
30-2



Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
Cast acrylic from Laird Plastics in RI.  Give them the old ones and they will replicate.  



Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material

The companionway hatch and a cabin "moon roof" on our boat are thicker, maybe 3/8", but I would like it to be double that, like 3/4" so people could stand on it safely.  I'm looking into replacing with 1/2" acrylic and adding some reinforcement ribs.

Chuck S, 

--
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material

I made templates myself from 1/4" material to match my portlights and had a local company, Annapolis Marine Plastics replicate them. I chose the darkest color and the new pieces look better than new. Haven't mounted them yet, but I think dark is the way to go.

Chuck S

 A
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
Message-ID: <
DA752E7C-F34E-484B-B20B-096BFF9F1EA5@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I just looked up my McMaster-Carr order, and I used 5952 series 3M VHB tape. I updated the ?new portlights? on the Johanna Rose blog to reflect this along with the  McMaster-Carr part numbers.

The 5952 series is black and is 3/16? think.  In my case, with the 1/4? polycarbonate, this thickness was perfect. It provided enough of a gap for the Dow 795 with the portlight ending up slightly proud of cabin surface.  I would not try to double up the thickness.  I think it is more important to put a good bevel on the inner edge to help the sealant flow underneath and around the edge to form a good beaded adhesive seal.

I looked into using Sika with the VHB tape, but after researching, I found that there were many good reports of long-term success using the Dow 795.  To add to this track record, Dow 795 is much easier to work with and costs about $8 per 10.3oz cartridge (both big pluses for the DIY-er).


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/new-fixed-ports.html <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/new-fixed-ports.html>



-
Paul E.



> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>

> The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest
> tape which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I
> have a friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks
> like the 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher
> adhesion for the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR
> has the highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the
> tape to press into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more
> differential expansion of the glass and frame.
>
> As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto
> industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be
> primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination
> of VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior
> finish and sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.
>
> Josh
-------------- 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows


Besides being bulletproof,  a good reason for using polycarbonate is that it is much more flexible than acrylic.  You do not have to force it, it will almost noodle its way to fit on the curved surface.   The drawback of using polycarbonate: cost, UV degradation, and surface scratching, are less of an issue these days.  Bayer makes an extended abrasion and UV resistance polycarbonate called  Makrolon 15.  A piece of 1/4" x 10" x 43" transparent grey goes for $35 at EStreetPlastics.com <
http://estreetplastics.com/>.



-
Paul E

Wednesday, 14 August 2019

Does anybody have one of these?

Hoping to find one of these as I managed to break one - specifically the trim around the "eyeball".  Thanks.