Friday, 26 August 2016

Repair of keel/hull joint, closing unneeded thru hulls, and rudder

Here are some modest sized examples of glass repair- closing two thru hulls, and repairing some small damage (and voids) at the keel/hull joint.






Sunday, 21 August 2016

Bang! Broken spinlock rope clutch...



Setting up the spinnaker topping lift yesterday and bang - the clutch frame broke.  See the pic.   Does anybody have a replacement or, better yet, a spare single or double (or triple?) Schaefer clutch they'd be willing to part with?  (the Schaefers seem to work better)

Schaefer Type 2 Rope Clutches - Large   (3/8"-1/2" line)
Schaefer Type 2 Large - Single Rope Clutch: Sch 71-61X: Schaefer Type 2 Large Aluminum Single Rope Clutch is designed for use with line from 3/8"-1/2" (9-13mm) diameter. Attaches to Deck with (2) 1/4" (6mm) FH screws on 3 3/4" centers. Base is (maximum) 4 1/2" long x 1" wide. Unit is (maximum) 3 1/4" high (with handle down). Suitable for most applications on boats to 35' LOA.

You can clearly see the fracture by the fulcrum pin.  The one spinlock broke, the 30 year old Schaefers are fine.  






 This is the larger of the two clutch series' that Schaefer offered.  





Starboard side clutches as well.  Probably could improve the layout.   Silly clam cleat there is for the baby stay.




Monday, 15 August 2016

Quest for Jacklines


Jacklines.


Added after original post:  I have measured more carefully and I believe the ideal length for a 33-2 webbing jackline is just over 21 feet.  This allows it to be attached to the toe-rail forward, beside the aft end of the anchor locker hatch, and aft, directly beside the genoa sheet turning block.  the jackline then leads straight fore and aft and allows free passage outboard of the shrouds.  



After my first real singlehanded journey on Windstar, it became clear that well thought out and consistently used jacklines are a necessity.    Windstar came with ONE (?) 30' Westmarine jackline, and I sometimes rigged a length of line as #2.  Kinda did it differently each time, and not every time I that should have.    In any case, I have finally, firmly, grasped the obvious, and have invested some time in learning and planning a strategy. 

There are many online expert opinions on jacklines, and some sources of supply for premade jacklines (few in Canada) but they are available.  Here are my learnings:
  • The breaking strength of jacklines for offshore use should exceed 4500lbs.  (this is a minimum specified for offshore racing I believe - you can look up the reference, I forget)
  • Flat is better than round as it won't roll underfoot.  There is some debate about whether a flat line should be twisted somewhat to make it easier to pick up.
  • The appropriate amount of stretch is a subject of some debate, however most don't stretch.
  • Jacklines should be as close to the centreline of the yacht as possible.
  • Jacklines should permit continuous travel the length of the yacht but should stop one tether length short of the bow and stern.
  • Jacklines should be setup as taut as is practical.
  • You should be able to clip onto the jackline before leaving the cockpit, and unclip after returning.
  • And finally, my own addition - the jackline should not be attached to a cleat that might otherwise be needed.
So,  first I studied Windstar for how to rout the lines and meet the above criteria.   I was happily thinking about adding padeyes and backing plates, and found that this was not so easy to do in the most logical locations on windstar due to access issues.   Good thing, it made me think some more, and I came up with a method using two jacklines, each 18'4" in length, that utilizes existing attachment points, and I think, maximizes safety and utility.  Most of the above criteria are met.  (see below, I later realized that 20'4" would have been a better length.)

Plan C would be to buy another one like what I already had.   My Westmarine jackline uses approximately 6000lb breaking strength polyester webbing.   The stitching is not adequate to maintain this rating.  It costs $80 US for one.   It is the wrong length.  (and it is now for sale)



Before doing that, I thought I'd try finding the right material and fabricating the correct length.  To cut to the chase, after a lot of searching and head scratching, I found the industrial equivalent in the field of cargo control, where a webbing strap with sewn end loops is known as a sling.   Same stuff, but real ratings, as industry would require.  I was lucky to find CTS here in Toronto, where my inquiry was quite routine, and the service was excellent, as was the product knowledge.

http://www.ctscargotiedown.com/POLYESTER-SLING-WEBBING.html


I discussed the application and we elected to use 9600lb sling webbing, and they made me up - in Canada -  4 very robust jacklines while I waited for around $12 US each!  (Wouldn't it be great if every business hustled and provided value like that....)  Apparently the tow truck market is different than the yacht market!    Sadly though, my jacklines do not come in a cute little bag.  :-(

FYI -
If I were to order these by phone or internet, I would do a sketch of the required sling, and specify the webbing part number and loop length.   That would be enough.

Comparison


Rating.

Here's the application.  
 
 
Overall I'm pleased with the outcome except that:
  • 2' more length would have been beneficial.   My initial intent had been to lash in place, and have the line lead straight and under tension before it occurred to me to use a rope grommet, doubled through the toerail, (and leave the line a bit slack)   I had allowed 12" for lashing, and wanted the line a bit taut, and straight.   Splitting hairs.      I think rope grommets are a really sound, inexpensive, and time-honoured solution for fastening to the toerail.  The one In the photo was made for another purpose and is only 4" in diameter, so I will make a few larger ones.   Easy. the example below is half inch nylon that has been doubled, but it could also have been ring hitched.  (cow hitched, luggage tagged, etc...)
 
  • The spinlock carabiner (which I find fiddly) is a tight fit at first over the  webbing, and must be eased to slide over over the doubled part.   Other carabiners, no problem.  I think the webbing will soften a bit with use, and in any case this is a small complaint.  The 9800lb webbing is overkill for sure, and the 6000lb is handier in some carabiners.
So, overall, a pretty good solution, and confidence inspiring.
 
 
 
 

Below decks Holding tank aroma

A discussion recently on the Stus list - the C&C email mailing list, piqued my curiosity about my piquant holding tank and related hardware - for background, I had replaced head and hoses, and had removed the tank for repair.  Despite numerous washings with bleach and other hopeful chemicals, it still stank.   perhaps a lost cause, but I had hoped (and continue to hope) that with proper hoses and ventilation, the smell will be contained to the tank.
My new and 'proper' hoses fail the sniff test, now, one season later.   Apparently there is a much better grade that is non permeable.   Also, my tiny original vent hose is probably partially blocked, and regardless, is hardly more than a means of ensuring the tank remains at atmospheric pressure.

he upshot of the discussion appears to be this:
Get the best hoses, non permeable.
Ensure that the waste cannot decompose anaerobically, meaning, ensure it gets plenty of oxygen.  The vent cannot do this.  Other do this either passively (larger and multiple vents) or actively (an aquarium type bubbler, or oxygen tablets.)  

My original question:

From: Dave Syer <syerdave@gmail.com>

  To: "dreuge@gmail.com"< dreuge@gmail.com>, C&c Stus List

  <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38

  NOW Active holding tank vent

  Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail. You have piqued my curiosity with your active holding tank vent project. I have a rather ?piquant? poly holding tank in my 33-2. I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses and still I get a stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened. The tank itself was removed and repaired, and while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I attempted, bleach, etc. Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.

  Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. (or do both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the new tank)

  In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other insights? Anything you would do differently?

 

  Dave

 
> Dave,

> 
> From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper
> ventilation are main keys.   A real eye opener for me was finding
> a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or
> replace your vent line.   To be honest, I cannot make any claims that
> adding the active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly
> installed so there was no problem to fix.  But at such a small
> cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly
>  pumps fresh air into the holding tank.   I thought briefly about
> getting a 12V air pump, but  if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb
> the galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat
> for an extended period,
> the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water.   This
> eliminate salt water organisms from the inlet line which die off in
> the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically.

> Paul E.

> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall

 

> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

> Thanks Paul, you've  got me thinking....
> I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out
> commented that he liked the location because he could hear the vent.  
> So, it is admitting some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it
> can't circulate.
> Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill?  Big
> boats have big vents...  Same thing, I would  think.
> This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air
> the tank.

> Dave.

Message: 1

Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2016 09:33:12 -0400

From: Danny
HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and
won't be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one
created by the pump.  Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I
added a second and enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings
and hose.  was not that big a job.  also the waste hose could be a big
source of smells from the system.  I replaced all those as well.  no
oder at all on our boat!

The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at
pumpout with fresh water running into the system through the vent
opening and get the tank nice and clean.

Danny


 Cc: "Andrew

> Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 07:46
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38 NOWActive holding tank vent
>> I flush an oxygenater tablet into the holding tank every few weeks. That has completely eliminated the smell we once had from the holding tank.
 
 
This is one source.
 
>> Andy
 
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2016 09:42:23 -0400
From: "Marek


Dave,

not a specific solution to any of your problems, but if you are dealing with sanitation, Peggy Hall?s book (Get Rid of Boat Odors) is a very good read. It might be the best $25 you spend on your sanitation systems (A Kindle version is I think under $10).


Marek



Further to that discussion, a reference to Peggie Hall ("The Headmistress") on a powerboating website "ask the experts" page - covers hoses: 

And don't forget the vent lines. They should be as short, straight, and horizontal as possible; five feet is a good length. Hall recommends using a one- or even a 11⁄2-inch-diameter vent rather than the standard 5/8 inch, even though it means using a nonstandard fitting in the topsides. "I'm not a fan of vent filters, either. The filter impedes the free flow of air, which you need for odor control."
Once you've decided on a location, find a tank to fit the space. "Ronco Plastics
has over 400 shapes and sizes; they're the best source on the planet for water and holding tanks," says Hall. Ronco will install the fittings you want, where you want them. "I prefer two discharges, because it eliminates the Y-valve—one less thing to break. Ideally the inlet, outlets, and vent should be on top of the tank, which eliminates standing waste in the hoses," she explains. "However, that requires at least five inches of clearance above the tank, which isn't always possible." Top-mounted fittings let you disconnect the hoses without spillage even if the holding tank is full. "Have you ever known a macerator to fail when the tank wasn't full?"
Finally invest in top-quality hoses. Hall recommends just two brands: Trident Sani Shield #101 and #102, double-walled hoses with high odor-resistance; and SeaLand. "Double-clamp everything, with the clamp screws on opposite sides of the hose," she notes.

 

 

 
 
 

Wednesday, 10 August 2016

What is this hose?

This is the hose from the engine to the water heater and back.   It is basically 5/8 automotive heater hose but with an additional jacket of orange neoprene rubber/hypalon, or whatever.  Basically a heavy duty heater/coolant hose.    What is it called and where can I find it?  Thanks!

Lexan Shelves under sink

Should be clear in the photo.  Storing the various containers you see here was a nuisance, and the space was wasted.  
Simple solution that works.

Mahogany knife block.


I enjoy cooking (even on a boat) and dislike cheap, dull knives.   Below was made from some mahogany door jamb material I had on the lumber rack, fitted to some Henkel commercial knives I found -  was told these are the choice of most working restaurants/chefs.   They are quite fine for the boat, and the rack is, I think, a decent solution.   It was placed near the finger-hole to leave space on the left for future considerations.