Quest for Jacklines

Jacklines.

Added after original post:  I have measured more carefully and I believe the ideal length for a 33-2 webbing jackline is just over 21 feet.  This allows it to be attached to the toe-rail forward, beside the aft end of the anchor locker hatch, and aft, directly beside the genoa sheet turning block.  the jackline then leads straight fore and aft and allows free passage outboard of the shrouds.  



After my first real singlehanded journey on Windstar, it became clear that well thought out and consistently used jacklines are a necessity.    Windstar came with ONE (?) 30' Westmarine jackline, and I sometimes rigged a length of line as #2.  Kinda did it differently each time, and not every time I that should have.    In any case, I have finally, firmly, grasped the obvious, and have invested some time in learning and planning a strategy. 

There are many online expert opinions on jacklines, and some sources of supply for premade jacklines (few in Canada) but they are available.  Here are my learnings:

• The breaking strength of jacklines for offshore use should exceed 4500lbs.  (this is a minimum specified for offshore racing I believe - you can look up the reference, I forget)
• Flat is better than round as it won't roll underfoot.  There is some debate about whether a flat line should be twisted somewhat to make it easier to pick up.
• The appropriate amount of stretch is a subject of some debate, however most don't stretch.
• Jacklines should be as close to the centreline of the yacht as possible.
• Jacklines should permit continuous travel the length of the yacht but should stop one tether length short of the bow and stern.
• Jacklines should be setup as taut as is practical.
• You should be able to clip onto the jackline before leaving the cockpit, and unclip after returning.
• And finally, my own addition - the jackline should not be attached to a cleat that might otherwise be needed.

So,  first I studied Windstar for how to rout the lines and meet the above criteria.   I was happily thinking about adding padeyes and backing plates, and found that this was not so easy to do in the most logical locations on windstar due to access issues.   Good thing, it made me think some more, and I came up with a method using two jacklines, each 18'4" in length, that utilizes existing attachment points, and I think, maximizes safety and utility.  Most of the above criteria are met.  (see below, I later realized that 20'4" would have been a better length.)

Plan C would be to buy another one like what I already had.   My Westmarine jackline uses approximately 6000lb breaking strength polyester webbing.   The stitching is not adequate to maintain this rating.  It costs $80 US for one.   It is the wrong length.  (and it is now for sale)

Before doing that, I thought I'd try finding the right material and fabricating the correct length.  To cut to the chase, after a lot of searching and head scratching, I found the industrial equivalent in the field of cargo control, where a webbing strap with sewn end loops is known as a sling.   Same stuff, but real ratings, as industry would require.  I was lucky to find CTS here in Toronto, where my inquiry was quite routine, and the service was excellent, as was the product knowledge.

http://www.ctscargotiedown.com/POLYESTER-SLING-WEBBING.html


I discussed the application and we elected to use 9600lb sling webbing, and they made me up - in Canada -  4 very robust jacklines while I waited for around $12 US each!  (Wouldn't it be great if every business hustled and provided value like that....)  Apparently the tow truck market is different than the yacht market!    Sadly though, my jacklines do not come in a cute little bag.  :-(

FYI -

If I were to order these by phone or internet, I would do a sketch of the required sling, and specify the webbing part number and loop length.   That would be enough.

Comparison

Rating.

Here's the application.  

 

 

Overall I'm pleased with the outcome except that:

• 2' more length would have been beneficial.   My initial intent had been to lash in place, and have the line lead straight and under tension before it occurred to me to use a rope grommet, doubled through the toerail, (and leave the line a bit slack)   I had allowed 12" for lashing, and wanted the line a bit taut, and straight.   Splitting hairs.      I think rope grommets are a really sound, inexpensive, and time-honoured solution for fastening to the toerail.  The one In the photo was made for another purpose and is only 4" in diameter, so I will make a few larger ones.   Easy. the example below is half inch nylon that has been doubled, but it could also have been ring hitched.  (cow hitched, luggage tagged, etc...)

 

• The spinlock carabiner (which I find fiddly) is a tight fit at first over the  webbing, and must be eased to slide over over the doubled part.   Other carabiners, no problem.  I think the webbing will soften a bit with use, and in any case this is a small complaint.  The 9800lb webbing is overkill for sure, and the 6000lb is handier in some carabiners.

So, overall, a pretty good solution, and confidence inspiring.